Barão Fladgate: Portuguese roots are (even) deeper in the winter menu

How do onion soup, alheira with egg or clams Bolhão Pato style transform into classic fine dining? The answer lies in Chef Tiago Ramos' creations for Barão Fladgate's new menu, in Vila Nova de Gaia, where the comfort of each dish invites you to stay at the table.

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November 2, 2023 – Haute cuisine with Portuguese roots is at the heart of Barão Fladgate. In the new winter menu, these roots have deepened to bring comfort proposals to the Taylor's Caves restaurant, which do not forget some international details, unusual ingredients and combinations – the signature that Chef Tiago Ramos has been giving to the restaurant for a year now.

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To start the meal, there are two starters strongly inspired by more traditional cuisine. First, an onion soup that makes you forget the almost colorless broth that we might associate with it. With brownish tones and great consistency, Tiago Ramos' proposal features three textures of onion (crunchy, powdered and roasted onion puree), a crunchy layer of Emmenthal cheese and another of Broa de Avintes – an ingredient common to all of the Chef's menus.

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Next comes the starter that comes from the Chef's personal taste: alheira and egg. The first is game, from the Trás-os-Montes region and appears on the plate in pieces; the second is cooked at a low temperature to envelop the entire creation at the table. A ball of potato, olive and sesame soil and the sweet tang of cogolho lettuce also help to transform the tradition into a haute cuisine proposal.

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“Each new menu presents us with the challenge of presenting new possibilities of Portuguese gastronomy, both to the international and national public, which increasingly merge at Barão Fladgate. I seek to present an immersive experience that showcases the richness of our cuisine and its versatility to create differentiating proposals”, explains the Chef.

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The premise extends to sea dishes, which include the most traditional fish on Portuguese tables, but with less common accompaniments. Half-cured cod is used, confit, wrapped in duck ham and served with galette potatoes, roasted cauliflower, red onion compote, hazelnut bearnese and rhubarb, which adds freshness to the dish.

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Corvina remains on the menu at Barcão Fladgte, but comes with a side dish with Portuguese aromas: a caldoso rice prepared in a clam broth from the Ria de Aveiro à Bolhão Pato. The dish combines fish with mushrooms – one of the Chef's favorite combinations – and also has prawn, salicornia and an emulsion of sparkling wine and Szechuan pepper, which is very aromatic.

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For meat, pork rack returns to the menu accompanied by mashed potatoes with tartufo, green beans sautéed in butelo fat (typical Trás-os-Montes sausage), chestnuts and a pepper jus inspired by Bairrada.

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Among the new items on the menu is braised duck magret served with a parade of Portuguese flavors: apple puree from Alcobaça and cinnamon, split peas, turnip in two textures and thyme and orange jus from the Algarve. The pak-choi cabbage adds inspiration from Asian cuisine, which is clear in the vegan proposal of the menu.

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The ramen has seitan, shimeji mushrooms, organic cabbage, Japanese eggplant, courgette, green asparagus, onion and a touch of chili, without forgetting the seaweed that adds creaminess to the broth prepared by Tiago Ramos.

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The “strange element” of the desserts

Hugo Coelho is the Pastry Chef who creates the restaurant's four desserts, each with an ingredient as a starting point: acorn, banana leaf, charcoal and hay.

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“I see in each dessert a setting where a story is told. Among the ingredients, there is always one that is different from the usual, either because it is less common or even seen as less noble. Working with this strange element in a harmonious way is the big challenge,” he explains.

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Bosque is one of the new additions and transports us to an autumn scenario created around a 72% cocoa semi-cold, overlaid with an acorn crunch in the shape of the fruit itself. The journey through the woods is made with a “land” of chocolate, almonds and chestnuts, a raspberry gel and even roasted pistachio and tarragon rock. Upon arriving at the table, the environment is scented with the aroma of cinnamon for a complete experience.

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The second novelty takes us to a more exotic side, with a Banana Cheesecake. When you look at it, the creation resembles a nest whose center is filled with a soft banana leaf creme anglaise. Around it, a crunchy garam masala and edible flowers make up the dessert, which is also accompanied by salted caramel ice cream.

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From the previous menu, The Moon remains (a dessert that recreates the surface of the Moon and includes charcoal among the vast list of ingredients) and Figo, which is inspired by a sheep (whose shape appears right on the plate) and includes a sponge cake made from hay.

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BARÃO FLADGATE

Full menu: https://www.baraofladgate.com/menu/

Location: Rua do Choupelo 250, 4400-088 Vila Nova deGaia

Hours: every day, 12:30 pm – 3:30 pm, 7:00 pm – 10:00 pm

Reservations: reservations.baraofladgate@tresseculos.pt or 932 110 694